Anna Puig (Barcelona, 1988) is a young entrepreneur who has discovered her passion in the production of artisan dairy products. Despite not having a direct rural background, her experiences during weekends on a farmhouse in Arbúcies throughout her childhood awakened her taste for nature. The contrast with her daily life in Sant Just Desvern, where she grew up, opened her heart to a life in touch with the earth. She now shares this life with her partner, Mateu Cañelles (Sabadell, 1986).

The couple resides in Montserrat Rural Park and operates from the Lluçanès shared dairy, where they manufacture the cheeses and yogurts under their brand, La Petita Ànima. Anna finds solace and balance in the serene surroundings and is content. She enjoys working with her hands and creating high-quality products using local ingredients. Besides her love for dairy products, she also indulges in other activities like hiking in the mountains and participating in Potes Roges, which is the casteller group of Vacarisses.

In this interview, Anna discusses her connection to rural areas, the creativity that drives cheese culture, and the importance of supporting new entrepreneurs.

How did you discover your passion for craft dairy?

Despite not having a direct rural background, my parents rented a farmhouse in Arbúcies for many years. I grew up in Sant Just Desvern, which is not exactly a rural area. However, the time we spent in the farmhouse, far from the city, opened my mind to a more rural lifestyle. It was an experience that had a significant impact on me. Later on, when I became interested in working on a personal and autonomous project, I decided to move towards a more artisanal activity such as cheese production. Nature has always attracted my attention. During my teenage years, I wanted to be with my friends and enjoy the city. However, over time, I have come to value the moments spent in the mountains more.

«The time we spent in the farmhouse, far from the city, opened my mind to a more rural lifestyle» Anna Puig

At what point did you decide that you wanted to dedicate yourself professionally to this trade?

It all began with a desire for change. After completing my tourism training and working for some time, I felt the need for a different life. I decided to work as an au pair, an experience that lasted for almost two years. When I returned, despite being in the same environment, I had undergone a profound transformation, which led me to explore a new professional direction.

To discover new paths, I volunteered in the United States through the international association WWOOF. I worked on a farm that had its own herd of fifty goats, milking them, and making their products. This allowed me to participate in the entire production process, from milking and processing the cheeses to preparing them for distribution and selling them at the weekly market. This experience confirmed my desire to work in this field, despite the job's toughness.

On my return, I decided to pursue specific training starting with the Pyrenees Agricultural School, where I learned about the production of yogurts, butter, and cheeses. Later, I expanded my knowledge with a basic course organized by the Lluçanès Consortium. A few months later, I underwent extensive training at Quall, the Alpens collective dairy, where I learned a lot and had the opportunity to familiarize myself with the equipment.

What led you to start your own cheese business?

After completing my training at Quall, I decided to pursue my passion for cheese-making and gained work experience at La Frasera, an artisanal cheese dairy located in Montserrat Rural Park. This experience proved to be invaluable in acquiring the necessary skills before embarking on my own cheese-making journey. Moreover, having access to a fully equipped shared workshop to produce my cheeses was an opportunity I couldn't miss. Despite living in Vacarisses, producing my cheeses in Quall allowed me to save on initial investments and test whether my creations were market-ready. I founded La Petita Ànima in December 2022.

What prompted you to choose dairy production as your craft, amidst so many other available options? What fascinates you most about the world of cheesemaking?

The process of turning milk into cheese has always intrigued me. This transformation has captivated me and motivated me to explore the world of cheesemaking further. The more I research and learn, the more I become absorbed in this fascinating area. I enjoy experimenting with different techniques to discover the best practices in cheese production. For me, it's a continuous process of trial and error, rather than an exact science.

«The process of turning milk into cheese has always intrigued me; it's a continuous process of trial and error, rather than an exact science» Anna Puig

Did you have a mentor or person who significantly influenced you in your career change from tourism to food craft?

No, I didn't. My own concerns were what guided me on this path.

What variety of cheeses do you currently produce at La Petita Ànima?

Our product range consists of several types of cheese and a fermented cream cheese. We offer a natural yoghurt with bifids, a soft cheese called 'Fugaç' made from pasteurized milk, and a semi-cured cheese called 'Xerraire'. The Xerraire is aged for two months and has a rind rubbed with black beer, which is gluten-free and from the La Sitgetana brewery. We also have a cured cheese called 'Salvatge', made with raw milk, that won a silver medal in March at the Artisan and Catalan Cheese Fair in Girona. Our fermented cream cheese is called ratafia tupi and is made with ratafia from a producer in the shared workshop of the Tres Cadires Cooperative.

What raw material do you use to make your products?

We exclusively use cow's milk to make our products, which we purchase directly from the Can Garduixeres family farm located in Olost at the heart of Lluçanès. The farm is managed by two brothers, and they milk about 50 cows daily.

Why did you choose to use cow's milk for your cheese production?

The decision to use cow's milk for our cheese production is based on the current situation in the sector. We have noticed that many Catalan farms have had to stop their activities due to not receiving a fair price for their milk. Therefore, we believe it is crucial to support our growers and livestock farmers. As both producers and consumers, it is essential for us to learn about the origin of the food we purchase, understand its true value, and show support to the people who produce it.

How important is the collective dairy of Lluçanès in the creation and development of La Petita Ànima?

As previously mentioned, the ability to utilize the collective dairy has been pivotal in the creation of my company. It has allowed me to test my products before launching them in the market, without the need for a significant initial investment. Furthermore, it has provided opportunities to collaborate with other entrepreneurs, creating synergies that may not have been possible otherwise. I believe that there should be more shared workshops available throughout our region, not just for cheese production, but also for other artisanal foods. The availability of more processing facilties would greatly benefit entrepreneurs who have limited resources, increase accessibility to a wider audience and promote a diverse range of projects.

«The availability of more processing facilties would greatly benefit entrepreneurs who have limited resources, increase accessibility to a wider audience and promote a diverse range of projects» Anna Puig

What is your opinion on the role of administrations in supporting artisanal food projects and other similar initiatives? Do you think there are gaps in the resources and support currently available, and in what sense do you think the administrations could improve their support for these types of projects?

The collective dairy promoted by the Barcelona Provincial Council in the BCN Smart Rural initiative is commendable. However, I believe that these projects require more resources and stronger support from the authorities. The shared workshops are an excellent way to reduce the initial investment required, but the authorities should also encourage young people to reintegrate into the primary sector and appreciate the value of the land. Finding land for agricultural or livestock production is a complex process, and the authorities should intervene to facilitate this process. The shared workshops are a valuable model for production, not only in the dairy sector but also in other food areas. Therefore, this approach should be further promoted.

You mentioned that the shared workshop is a great opportunity. Could you tell us more about how these types of spaces encourage collaboration and the exchange of ideas?

Collaboration lies at the core of these facilities. By sharing space and knowledge with others, you can create synergies that enhance the possibility of merging independent projects or even starting new collaborations. You never know what opportunities a shared workshop can offer.

«By sharing space and knowledge with others, you can create synergies that enhance the possibility of merging independent projects or even starting new collaborations» Anna Puig

How does a shared workshop work?

If you would like to use a shared workshop, you need to submit an application that includes a presentation of your project. Your application will be evaluated based on various criteria, such as the origin of your raw materials (in our case, milk) and your business plan. If your application is accepted, you will be able to use the equipment for a limited number of hours per week. These weekly hours are restricted to ensure that everyone has an opportunity to use the workshop, but they should be sufficient for you to produce your project.

Where can La Petita Ànima cheeses be purchased?

Our La Petita Ànima cheeses are mainly available for purchase at the Origin of Montserrat Rural Park market. We have also expanded our sales points in Barcelona city and are now available at the Guinardó and Sants-Les Corts farmers' markets every Saturday. Furthermore, we participate in various fairs and collaborate with specialized stores such as the cheese factory Ireneu in Barcelona. We also offer a home delivery service for those who are interested.

What kind of experience are you hoping your customers will have with your products?

Personally, I hope that they would find enjoyment in tasting our products. Additionally, we take pride in sharing the story and effort that goes into making each cheese, which is reflected in the labels. The most satisfying experience for us is when a customer writes to congratulate us or returns to the market to buy another piece of cheese because they truly enjoyed it.

Do you think that local, quality and artisanal products are currently valued enough?

After the pandemic, there has been a significant increase in the appreciation of local products. People have rediscovered the richness of locally produced goods. However, it is crucial to acknowledge and recognize the entire value chain. From small-scale breeders to artisanal dairy producers and ultimately to the end consumer, everyone involved in the process deserves fair compensation and appreciation.

Do you think society is more aware of the importance of consuming quality products and is willing to pay a fair price?

I would say that there is a growing awareness in society about the importance of consuming quality products and being mindful of the impact our food choices have on our health in the long run. While I personally don't believe in completely eliminating meat from our diets, I do think that it's important to make changes to our eating habits. We should consume less meat overall, but opt for higher quality meat that is locally sourced whenever possible. In other words, it's better to support our local farmers and buy meat from our neighbors than to rely on meat shipped from far away.

How does living and working in a rural environment like Vacarisses and Alpens influence you?

Living and working in a rural environment has a great influence on me. It provides me with tranquility and peace, as it is a serene environment free of noise, where I can enjoy the singing of the birds. Although it may seem idyllic, it brings me an important inner balance. Whenever I have the chance, I love walking in the mountains. I am also part of the Potes Roges, the casteller group of Vacarisses, which is an activity that I am passionate about. Building castles (human towers) helps me disconnect and concentrate on a single task. However, I recognize that with my job, disconnecting completely can be a challenge.

What is your day-to-day life like as an artisan cheesemaker? Do you have a set routine?

As a freelance artisan cheesemaker, my day-to-day routine varies a lot. Although I try to establish a structure, my work is mainly conditioned by the tasks that need to be done at each moment. My day starts in the morning by driving to Lluçanès to collect the freshly milked milk, which takes about two hours. The cheese making process takes between four and six hours, depending on the type of cheese. Additionally, each variety requires specific care, such as turning them or rubbing the bark. Selling the cheese is as vital as producing it. To sum it up, my days are long and intense, and I work hard every week.

What role does creativity play in your daily work?

Creativity plays an essential role in my daily work. While I don't consider myself particularly creative, I understand that this skill is crucial in craftwork. Every stage of the process, from selecting the ferments to cutting the curd and molding it, requires a touch of creativity. Even the creation of the brand name and packaging design result from a creative process.

«Creativity plays an essential role in my daily work. Every stage of the process, from selecting the ferments to cutting the curd and molding it, requires a touch of creativity» Anna Puig

What motivates you when developing a new dairy product? 

Even though I believe that most cheeses have already been created, I strive to add my own unique twist to them. Our goal is to provide customers with a variety of cheeses that are locally sourced and of high quality. We also aim to boost food sovereignty in the area.

How do you manage to merge innovation with tradition in the creation of your cheeses?

In Catalonia, although we may not have as extensive a cheese history as other regions, we still manage to innovate with our own recipes while preserving tradition. We believe that bringing the rural world closer to the city is an innovative way to achieve this. The consumption of dairy products is universal, and it's important to establish bridges between rural areas and large cities where there is a greater concentration of consumers.

Why did you choose 'La Petita Ànima' ('Small Soul' in English) as the name for your company?

We chose that name because it represents us and our values. The word 'Soul' resonates deeply with us and we wanted a name that symbolized our aspirations despite being a small project. We are a cheese factory that strives for greatness, and 'La Petita Ànima' is the perfect name to reflect that.

Do you have a favorite cheese among the ones you produce?

All of our cheeses are unique, but Salvatge holds a special place in my heart. It was the first cheese we created, the first one we brought to market, and the first one customers got to taste.

Do you have any plans to increase the variety of cheeses available at La Petita Ànima? Are there any new products in development?

At the moment, our priority is to focus on consolidating our existing products and strengthening our brand. Developing a new cheese is a lengthy process, which requires ample time and patience. While we may consider expanding our range in the future, our current goal is to improve and build upon what we already have.

«At the moment, our priority is to focus on consolidating our existing products and strengthening our brand. Developing a new cheese is a lengthy process, which requires ample time and patience» Anna Puig

What sustainable practices do you follow during your production process?

We prioritize using locally sourced milk, as well as other products like ratafia and beer. For our tupi, we specifically use Montserrat Rural Park olive oil. Additionally, we package our yogurt and tupi in reusable glass jars.

Are you planning to offer workshops or courses on cheese production?

Yes. As a matter of fact, I have already conducted fresh cheese workshops at events such as 'Benvinguts a Pagès'. These workshops provide an enriching experience for both me and the participants as they learn about the cheese production process and gain a better appreciation for the hard work that goes into making cheese.

Have you felt welcome in the rural world?

During my time in both Montserrat Rural Park and Lluçanès, I have had the pleasure of being welcomed with open arms by the local communities. Whenever I need assistance or have questions, they are always willing to offer their support. I am extremely grateful for their kindness and generosity, particularly when starting out in a new place where there is so much to learn and understand.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years, both personally and professionally?

Currently, I am 35 years old and will soon turn 36. In the next 10 years, I envision that La Petita Ànima will be well-established, and that Mateu and I will have our own workspace to create and produce cheeses. I also anticipate having a child.

Although you have shared many positive experiences, it is clear that being an entrepreneur also has its challenges. What are the biggest challenges you have faced as an entrepreneur in this sector and how do you think the administrations could improve support for small food artisans like you?

As a self-employed person, I have to handle all aspects of my business, which can be challenging. Learning is a continuous process, and managing time can be difficult. Dealing with bureaucracy and administration can also be complicated. However, with time, some aspects are mastered, although there will always be new challenges to overcome. Being an entrepreneur is a difficult journey, and I feel that the government should offer more support. They require us to follow the same procedures as larger companies, but with limited resources. To avoid small entrepreneurs giving up, it's essential that the government provides more help and facilities.

«Being an entrepreneur is a difficult journey, and I feel that the government should offer more support» Anna Puig

If someone wants to start a project similar to yours, what advice would you give based on your accumulated experience?

While the journey might seem challenging, if you have a clear understanding of your goal, you should go ahead and strive to achieve it. If you don't succeed, it is not a failure, as the most important thing is that you tried. Trying new things is a significant part of personal growth, regardless of the outcome. Therefore, to the young entrepreneurs out there, I would say that although the road ahead may be difficult, it is worth taking a step forward and fighting for your dream, one step at a time.

— Lola Mayenco —